What fair wear and tear means
When you lease a car you are expected to return it in a condition that reflects its age and mileage. Light scuffs, small stone chips and slightly worn carpets are ordinary signs of use. Dents that have cracked the paint, kerb-damaged wheels and torn upholstery are damage.
The British Vehicle Rental and Leasing Association (BVRLA) publishes a fair wear and tear standard for cars and light commercial vehicles, which most of its members follow. It is a guide to what an inspector may accept and what they may charge for, and it gives acceptable limits for different parts of the car in millimetres and counts per panel.
Your agreement may refer to the BVRLA standard directly or to the funder's own handback guide. Either way, the document you signed is what counts. Read it and keep a copy.
Funders also note the mileage when judging condition. A car that has covered the full allowance is expected to show more wear than one that has barely been used, and the standard allows for this in some categories.
Fair wear and tear sits alongside the mileage rules: the two are billed separately at the end, and you can estimate the mileage side with the excess mileage calculator. The general structure of a lease, including who is responsible for what, is covered on the how car leasing works page.
How the standard treats each part of the car
The summary below describes the principle for each area in plain terms. The standard itself sets exact measurements, and those are updated from time to time, so use the current BVRLA guide or the one your funder sent you for the numbers.
| Area | Normally acceptable | Normally chargeable |
|---|---|---|
| Tyres | Even wear and tread above the legal minimum of 1.6mm across the central three quarters of the tread | Tread below the legal limit, cuts, bulges, exposed cord, mismatched brands or sizes on the same axle |
| Bodywork | Small stone chips and light surface scratches that have not gone through the paint | Dents that break the paint, deep scratches to primer or metal, rust, and poor repairs |
| Alloy wheels | Light scuffing on the rim edge within the standard's limit | Cracks, buckles, scraped spokes or faces, deep gouges and missing centre caps |
| Interior | Slight wear to seats, carpets and trim consistent with mileage | Burns, rips, stains that will not clean, broken trim and strong smoke or pet odours |
| Glass and lights | Very small chips outside the driver's main line of sight | Cracks, large chips, chips in the driver's view and broken lamp lenses |
| Documents and keys | Complete set of keys, handbook, service records and manuals | Missing keys, fobs, locking wheel nut, service history or the handbook |
Tyres: the biggest easy win
Tyres are often the lowest-cost item to get right and the most expensive to ignore. The UK legal minimum tread depth for cars is 1.6mm across the central three quarters of the tread, and many funders expect more than that at handback. Tyres of the correct size and speed rating are also expected.
Check each tyre, including the spare or repair kit, for cuts, bulges and uneven wear. Replacing one worn tyre with a similar quality tyre usually costs less than the funder's replacement charge, which can include an administration element. If your contract includes tyre cover, ask how replacements are authorised and in what order.
Do not fit budget tyres of an unfamiliar brand to save money if the others are premium. A mismatched axle, or a tyre below the speed rating, is a typical reason for a charge.
Bodywork, wheels and glass
Inspectors look at each panel and tick off marks against the standard's limits. Typically a small number of tiny chips or short light scratches is accepted, but dents and scratches that reach the primer are charged. The test is also whether the area has been poorly repaired, since mismatched paint or filler is treated as damage.
Alloy wheels cause a large share of end-of-lease invoices. Light kerb marks on the rim edge are usually tolerated within the standard's size limit, but gouges on the face or spokes, cracks and bent rims are not. A specialist alloy refurbisher can often repair a scuffed wheel for less than the funder's charge, so ask a specialist for a price before collection.
Glass should be free from cracks and chips that affect the driver's view. Most funders expect you to repair or replace a damaged windscreen using the manufacturer-approved or equivalent glass, and a repaired chip is generally fine. Check wipers, lights and mirrors for cracks too.
Interior, documents and keys
Inside the car, seat wear, small marks on trim and a lightly worn driver's footwell are fine for a car with typical mileage. Burns, rips, large stains, pet damage, broken buttons and heavy odours are not. Valet the interior thoroughly, but do not use harsh chemicals that can discolour fabric.
All the documents and equipment supplied with the car should be returned. That means every key and fob, the handbook, any service book, the wheel nut key, a spare wheel or repair kit and charging cables on an electric car. Missing items are charged at the funder's replacement price, which can be surprisingly high for modern keys.
- Every key and fob, including valet or spare keys
- Service history, either as a stamped book or digital record
- Handbook and any manuals supplied in the glovebox
- Locking wheel nut key, tool kit and spare wheel or repair kit
- Charging cables and adaptors for plug-in cars
- Satnav discs, memory cards or login details where applicable
How to prepare before return
Start four to six weeks before the end date. Wash the car in daylight and walk round it using the fair wear and tear checklist, which mirrors the categories above and makes it easy to note what needs attention.
Take dated photographs of every panel, each wheel, the roof, glass, interior and the mileage. These are your evidence if there is a dispute. Then decide what to fix. A smart repair on one panel, a wheel refurbishment or a replacement tyre can cost less than the funder's published charge, but there is no point repairing something that is within the standard.
Make sure all service work is complete and records are kept, particularly if the contract makes you responsible for maintenance. Check the dashboard for warning lights, the MOT date if applicable and that the car is free of aftermarket modifications.
Repair or accept the charge? A worked way to decide
Not every mark is worth repairing. The decision comes down to comparing three figures: the funder's charge, a quote from an independent specialist and the chance that the mark would be accepted anyway. If an inspector would probably pass it, spend nothing. If the funder's tariff is clearly higher than a local repair, fix it.
As an illustration, suppose a scuffed alloy would be charged at a tariff of £120 by the funder and a mobile wheel specialist quotes £70. Repairing it saves £50, provided the repair is invisible. If the quote were £130, you would be better off leaving it and accepting the charge. The numbers are illustrative, and the same logic applies to a dented door or a worn tyre.
Timing matters too. A repair done shortly before collection leaves less time to correct a poor finish, whereas one done a month earlier can be checked and reworked. Ask the repairer whether they match the paint code and finish properly, and keep their invoice with your handback papers.
Also remember that funders often charge an administration fee on top of the repair cost for each item. Several small charges can therefore add up to more than one larger repair, which is another reason to deal with minor issues yourself.
A walk-round routine for each category
A methodical walk-round takes about 30 minutes and finds most of the issues an inspector will find. Work in the same order each time so nothing is missed: start at the driver's door and move clockwise round the car, then do the roof, the boot and the interior.
Use good light and a clean car, and look along each panel at a low angle because dents show up in the reflections. Run a hand over each lower edge, where stone chips and kerb scrapes collect, and press the arches and sills for rust bubbles. Note anything bigger than the size limits in your handback guide, and take a photo with a coin or ruler for scale.
Do not forget the less obvious areas. Fuel flaps, boot sills, door shuts and the underside of the front bumper are often damaged and often missed. On the inside, check the headlining, seat bolsters, centre console, air vent slats and the boot floor for marks.
- Walk round clockwise and check each panel for dents, scratches and paint chips
- Look at all four wheels and the spare, including the inner rim edge
- Check each tyre across its width and sidewall, not just the central tread
- Inspect the windscreen, side glass, mirrors and all lamp lenses
- Sit in every seat and check the upholstery, seat belts and carpets
- Test every button, window, sunroof, heated seat and charging port
- Confirm that the keys, handbook and service history are all present
Disputes and the BVRLA conciliation service
The inspector records the condition on the collection day, and you are usually asked to sign the report. Read it before signing, and write comments on anything you disagree with. If you are not there, you may receive the report later and have to contest it from your photos.
If the funder issues a bill that you think is wrong, write to them with your evidence and ask for the inspection photos and repair quotes. If you cannot agree and the funder is a BVRLA member, the BVRLA conciliation service can look at the evidence and give a recommendation. Check the BVRLA website to see whether your funder is a member.
Keep your tone factual. A clear letter that lists each item, shows your photo and quotes the relevant standard has a much better chance than a general complaint.